Surprisingly Important! Exploring the Types and Pros & Cons of Setting Melee Diamonds in Rings!
2020.05.17 published
What is "Meledia" often heard in choosing rings?
When choosing the design of engagement rings and wedding bands, the way stones are set (known as setting) is essential.
The large center diamond that takes center stage in engagement rings is typically set in a "claw setting." By securing the stone with metal claws, it captures a lot of light and makes the diamond shine to its fullest.
This time, we focus not on the center diamond but on the small diamonds called "meledia."
Meledia diamonds are used to accentuate the center diamond in engagement rings or as embellishments in wedding bands.
There are many types of meledia settings!
Meledia diamonds set without claws.
In fact, there are a wide variety of ways to set meledia diamonds.
The way they are set can greatly change the impression of the ring, so knowing the different patterns before starting to choose a ring will make it easier to find your ideal design.
Recently, the popularity of full eternity rings and half eternity rings without a center diamond has been increasing.
Brides choosing eternity rings particularly want to pay attention to the way meledia diamonds are set.
Detailed information about techniques can be found on ring shop websites, so at Marry, we will introduce various styles and recommended points from the bride's perspective ♡
Meledia Setting Method ① Claw Setting
The first setting method we introduce is the claw setting, where the diamonds are set using claws. It is also called a "claw setting."
Most of the large center diamonds in engagement rings are claw-set, so this may be easy to imagine.
Since the diamond is not covered by the metal, light enters from various directions, allowing you to enjoy the maximum brilliance of the diamond.
However, the downside is that the height of the stone can easily catch on clothing and other items.
When choosing wedding rings or engagement rings with claw-set meledia diamonds, it seems wise to choose a brand with good after-sales service.
Within claw settings, the designs significantly differ between "shared claw setting" and "four-claw setting," so let me introduce them.
First, the shared claw setting uses one claw to secure diamonds on both sides.
Since it requires fewer claws, it can show off the diamonds more brilliantly. It presents a delicate and glamorous impression, making it popular overseas.
However, if the ring gets deformed, the claws may also shift, posing a risk of the diamonds falling out.
Among claw settings, the shared claw setting requires the most caution.
The four-claw setting uses four claws for one meledia diamond.
It offers more stability than the shared claw setting.
If you want a sparkly design that represents bridal rings and wish to wear it often, the four-claw setting is recommended.
Meledia Setting Method ② Rail Setting
Next, we introduce a setting method categorized as "clawless," which does not use claws.
The first of these is the rail setting. It involves arranging diamonds closely together and securing them with metal above and below.
This method is said to be named because it looks like train tracks.
Overseas, it is called channel setting. (For corner stones, it appears to be called Gabriel setting. There are various names!)
The charm of the rail setting is its strength. With no bumps, it is less likely to snag, reducing the chances of losing a diamond.
Since bridal rings are something one will cherish for a lifetime, strength is an important consideration.
Visually, the design has a clean and adult-like impression without decorations between the stones.
Although simple in design, it is actually a highly challenging setting method. It requires a delicate balance of the brilliance and size of the arranged diamonds.
Beautifully crafted rail-set rings embody the skills of artisans ♡
While strength is essential, if you want more sparkle from the diamonds… it is recommended to choose a design with "millgrain" processing.
Millgrain means "thousand beads," and it involves creating continuous small bead-like impressions on the rail.
It is said to be an ancient decorative technique passed down in Europe.
With a rail setting that incorporates millgrain, both the diamonds and the rails will shine, creating a more glamorous impression!
Meledia Setting Method ② Carved Setting
Next, we introduce the carved setting method.
This method involves using a tool called a chisel to carve the metal, embedding the diamonds in the carved areas.
Similar to rail settings, it has fewer snags, making it easy to wear for everyday use.
Effectively handling the chisel is very difficult and requires skilled craftsmanship.
There are various designs for carved settings depending on how the metal is carved. Let’s introduce some representative examples ♩
<Design of Carved Setting ① Ball Setting>
This method creates metal balls instead of claws to secure the stone.
It gives a cute impression, as it appears to have little balls around the diamond.
<Design of Carved Setting ② Chocolate Setting>
The "chocolate setting" embeds the diamond to a depth where only a small portion is visible on the surface.
The name comes from the resemblance to a small liquor cup. The recessed metal is likened to the cup, filled with sake.
Since the diamond is embedded, the appearance is simple.
Due to the embedded nature of the stone, there is a delightful effect where the diamond appears larger due to the "reflection" of its sparkle.
<Design of Carved Setting ➂ Mass Setting>
The mass setting involves carving a square outline and setting the gemstone within it.
Each stone is individually compartmentalized, emphasizing the diamonds further.
It creates a stylish impression with sharp edges, making it recommended for those who want a cool design for their bridal rings.
<Design of Carved Setting ④ Lemon Setting>
The lemon setting creates a lemon-shaped carving around the stone, securing it at two points.
It can also resemble a leaf, so it is sometimes used in floral motif bridal rings.
This design is recommended for brides who want a unique appearance at first glance ♡
<Design of Carved Setting ⑤ Star Setting>
Recently, the star motif star setting has been gaining popularity.
It features a design as if the gemstone is embedded in a star, offering a high level of fashion.
It’s perfect for brides who plan to theme their wedding ceremony or decorations with "stars."
Since it is rarer than other settings, it is also recommended for those looking to choose a unique design.
Meledia Setting Method ➂ Bezel Setting
The bezel setting surrounds the diamond's edge with metal.
It is also referred to as bezel setting, flush setting, or full bezel setting.
Because the gemstone is securely surrounded by metal, it offers fewer snags and is less likely to get scratched.
The thickness creates a significant presence of the ring, which is a delightful point.
However, due to the high level of processing involved, it tends to take more time and may come with a higher cost.
With the bezel setting, it is also possible to create a design with movement rather than a straight line.
Since the stones are set independently, it would be lovely to mix in colored stones as an accent alongside the diamonds.
Which setting method is ideal for you?
We have introduced the types of meledia settings you should be aware of when choosing wedding bands and engagement rings.
Please select your ideal setting based on your visual preferences and the occasions on which you plan to wear it (daily vs. special occasions)!
May all the brides reading Marry encounter their favorite bridal rings ♡