"The Ultimate Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Choosing the Center Diamond Setting for Your Engagement Ring!"

2021.11.23 published
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Proof of Eternal Bond "Diamond"

When it comes to gemstones for engagement rings, diamonds are the mainstream choice, right?

Diamonds are said to be the "king of gemstones," characterized by their high hardness, making them less prone to chipping or breaking.

As April's birthstone, it symbolizes "purity," "innocence," "true love," and "eternal bonds," making it a traditional choice for engagement rings.*

Diamonds have a quality standard known as <4C>.

☑ Carat: (size)

☑ Cut: (brightness)

☑ Color: (color)

☑ Clarity: (transparency)

If you've ever been to a jewelry store, you’ve likely heard of these four characteristics.*

But have you heard of "setting"?

What is Setting?

The setting of diamonds (and other gemstones) refers to how they are secured.

Whether in rings, necklaces, or earrings, diamonds need to be secured with metal.

The center diamond of an engagement ring can generally be secured in two main ways:

☑ Setting with prongs

☑ Setting without prongs

Let's take a closer look at each of them.*

<Setting with Prongs>

Setting with prongs involves securing the diamond with several prongs. This is the classic look that comes to mind for engagement rings.♡

Because of its height and three-dimensional design, it can capture light from above, below, and from the sides, making the diamond sparkle.*

The height provided by the prongs also makes the diamond appear larger.

However, the downside is that it can catch on clothing or hit against objects due to its height.

The common types of prong settings are “claw setting” and “cathedral setting.”

① Claw Setting

A method of securing a single diamond with multiple prongs.

Fewer prongs allow for more light to enter but can make the diamond more susceptible to impact. The most common number of prongs is 6.

・4 prongs (characterized by a slightly square appearance)

・6 prongs (the most classic way)

・8 prongs (the setting with the least catchiness among prong settings)

You can also double or triple (double or triple prong) the number of prongs. (The image shows a double prong setting with 4 prongs.)

This can make the diamond harder to fall out and add to the design.

② Cathedral Setting

The cathedral setting involves raising the diamond and supporting it with arms on either side. Many designs place emphasis on how the ring looks from the side.♡

The arms extend close to the diamond, making it less likely to catch and providing a feeling of stability compared to prong settings.*

<Setting Without Prongs>

Settings without prongs tend to be lower in height, making them less likely to catch on things and easier to wear in everyday situations or at work.

Many people seem to prefer designs that can be used as fashion jewelry rather than traditional engagement rings.♡

The drawback is that because they are often set into metal, they may have less brilliance.

Since larger diamonds tend to look better in prong settings (it would be a waste to cover most of a large diamond!), they are often used for smaller diamonds.*

① Bezel Setting

This is when the center diamond is fully encircled by a band of platinum or gold.

Having no prongs yet retaining some height gives an engagement ring feel and a reassuring sense that it won't come off.♡

② Flush Setting

A method where a hole is made in the metal to embed the diamond. This can lead to a wider and thicker ring beyond the size of the diamond itself.*

③ Tension Setting

This method utilizes the tension of the metal to make the diamond appear to float. Isn't it amazing that the diamond can be seen from all angles?!!

This setting technique is patented by the German brand "Niessing." (Thus, it's also called Niessing setting.)

Niessing has made its way to Japan, allowing it to be purchased there as well.♡

④ Claw-Type Setting

This method involves creating grooves in the metal to pinch the edges of the gemstone. True to its name, the claw-type setting looks as if it pinches from the side, beautifully showcasing the diamond's profile.♡

⑤ Rail Setting

This method secures the diamond between two pieces of metal, resembling train tracks.

This is typically not used to secure the center diamond but rather for eternity rings or for smaller accent diamonds beside the center diamond.*

⑥ Flush Setting

A method of embedding the diamond directly into the metal. It’s also referred to as "dot setting" or "pression setting" and is a method that does not have any catchiness.*

The Impression Changes Significantly Depending on the Setting!

We've introduced the general concepts of how stones and diamonds can be “set.”*

Even for the same diamond, the impression can change significantly based on the setting.

When choosing an engagement ring, pay attention not only to the design and the diamond’s 4C but also to the “method of setting.”♡

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